Ireland Day 5 - Miles to Go Before I Sleep

"The world is full of magic things, patiently waiting for our senses to grow sharper."  W.B. Yeats

We hop in our car to head to our next stop - Killarney.  It doesn't look that far on a map.  About 3 inches.  We're no longer traveling on the motorway but on narrow, winding roads that at some points have me holding my breath as we round curves and praying no one is coming from the opposite direction.

We finally make it to our destination The Killarney Park Hotel, by far the grandest place we've stayed the entire trip.  We're greeted by name by the doorman and warmly welcomed by the hotel staff.  This is my kinda place!  The hotel is cozy and inviting with all its fireplaces and the grand staircase leading to the second floor.

We've got no time to sit around admiring the place and head straight to the Killarney National Park to hike.  This beautiful park contains some of Ireland's highest mountains as well as the beautiful lakes of Killarney.  As we begin our exploration, we notice the ruins of the Muckross Abbey which can be traced back to the beginnings of Christianity in Ireland.

We then hike alongside one of the lakes.

We end up at the Muckross House, a mansion designed by British architect William Burn which was eventually presented along with the acreage surrounding it to the Irish nation and became the basis of the national park.

After exploring Muckross, we head off to locate Torc Waterfall at the base of Torc Mountain.  As we approach the falls, I can't help but feel like I am in a lush, verdant cathedral.  The beauty of this place is breathtaking.

As we close on our Killarney adventures, we head back to the hotel and end the day with Irish whiskey, our senses sharpened; our world made magical.

Sealed with a Kiss - Ireland Days 3 and 4

We've had enough of the city and rent a car to head south.  Bob takes the wheel like a pro but I am continually reminding him, "Drive on the left!"  since our rental has a sticker on the dash with this warning.

We take to the highway and head south toward Cork.  It's about a 3 hour drive but the bucolic scenery makes the time fly by.  Seeing that we're not trying to be too touristy (ha!) we decide to swing by the Blarney Castle and Gardens on the way in.  The castle was built by Cormac McCarthy in 1446.  Most people recognize it for the Blarney Stone.

As legend has it, kissing this stone gives you the gift of gab.  I need all the help I can get in this department so I don't dare pass up this chance but they don't make it easy.  We climb a very tight, stone spiral staircase for several stories to get to the top of the castle.

The view alone is worth it.

We are hesitant when we learn we have to hang upside down and backwards while someone holds our legs to reach the stone.  It's not as easy as it sounds and it is a little disconcerting to be looking down while 90 feet in the air.

We all seal the deal with a kiss.  It's then that I wonder how many people have also locked lips with this stone.  Yuck.  But I'm assured by the staff that the stone is wiped down many times a day.

Despite being considered a tourist trap, the grounds of this castle are worth the trip.  As with everything in Ireland - lush and green.  We wander around for a couple of hours taking in all the beauty.

We head into Cork for an early dinner at Gallagher's Pub.  This pub is named after a famous musician from Cork named Rory Gallagher and it sits at the base of Patrick's Hill a block away from the St. Patrick's Bridge.  I'm skeptical but one of my son's Rooster Teeth fans who resides in Cork highly recommends the place.  It does not disappoint.  We're seated next to a huge plate glass window overlooking Patrick's Street so we can people watch while listening to the cool tunes playing.  

After all the walking at Blarney, we are famished and ready to whet our whistles with more Irish beer.    Pubs are the best place for fish and chips and mine are delicious.   

I would love to stay until the 8:00 Vinyl Hour to see what albums they spin but with our appetites satiated, it's time to move on to the coastal town of Kinsale.  This quaint town is full of character and charm.  It's small and appears to have more pubs than people.  The cobblestone streets are lined with charming shops and restaurants as well.  Our time here is way too short but we make the most of it.

If you're keeping score, the tally so far:

Tourist Trap:  2 (+1 for kissing the Blarney Stone)

Local Flavor:  3 (+2 for Gallagher's and for Kinsale in general)

Blurred Lines - Day 1 in Dublin

My soundtrack:  Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For by U2
https://youtu.be/stillhaventfound

I not only want to be in Ireland - I want to be Irish.  How could you not?  They're such an affable lot. You have to give it to them - despite the Norman invasion, Irish War of Independence, the Irish Civil War and all the other conflict the country has seen, the Irish have an unflappable patriotism and pride of country that can't be surpassed.  And they're friendly and engaging to boot.  So as we arrive in Dublin, our hopes are high for our short time in the city.

After a seven hour flight, we arrive in Dublin at 9:00 a.m. along with a plane full of Americans eager to celebrate the week leading up to the St. Patrick's Day festival.  We check into our hotel, take a one hour power nap then set out to explore. Despite the nap, we stiff suffer from tremendous jet lag so we decide to simply tour the Guinness Storehouse which is only a couple of blocks from our hotel.  We set off on foot towards the large facility that takes up several city blocks. As we wander aimlessly, a young guy stops and asks if we know where the entrance is. We confess we're lost and, having pity on us, he offers to lead in search of the entrance. Our new friend, Cooper, shares that he is originally from Belfast but now resides and works in Dublin. He, in turn, inquires about our home and what we're hoping to see while in Ireland. My husband innocently replies, "We want to stay away from the touristy places and get some local flavor" to which Cooper dies out laughing then asks, "Then why are you going to Guinness?" Good question.

As we round the corner to the entrance, the realization sets in. There is a line of tourists wrapped around the building. We smartly purchased our tickets online so there is no waiting for us. We enter  this massive 7 story complex that is part museum, part dining adventure and part brewery. In sum, it's like beersney world on steroids with the goal being the 7th floor to indulge in the panoramic view of Dublin while sipping a Guinness.

Initially we stop at each exhibit to learn the beer-making process. But by the time we reach the 3rd floor I'm ready to blow past the remaining exhibits and the throngs of people straight to the 7th floor. My family holds me at bay and suggests we participate in the Guinness Academy on the 5th floor where we learn the art of pouring a proper Guinness.

Step 1:  Choose a 20-ounce, tulip-shaped pint glass.  The wider neck allows nitrogen bubbles to move down the side of the glass and back up into the neck.  Tilt the glass to a 45-degree angle.

Step 2:  Pull the tap and fill the glass to the bottom edge of the tulip bump.

Step 3:  Stand the glass up and let it settle so there is a clear distinction between the dark body and the creamy white head.  If you don't let the beer settle, it will have a bitter taste.  Once settled, put the Guinness back up to the tap, push the tap away from you, aim directly into the middle of the foam head until it is half a millimeter about the rim of the glass.  Then let it settle again.

Step 4:  Bring the glass to your lips and sip the foam until you hit the beer.  You must have a foam mustache after sipping.

I'm not a dark beer fan but this is good.  They've won me over.

So we've mastered the perfect pour and move up to the 7th floor with our full glasses of Guinness and with every other tourist for the beautiful view of Dublin.

And it is an amazing view.

We're dragging at this point and have had enough of crowds.  A friend suggests we hit the oldest pubs in Dublin so we search out the Brazen Head.  It is officially Ireland's oldest pub and dates back to 1198.  It's a cozy place full of locals watching the rugby match between England and Scotland. We find a table, order pints of Guinness and join in cheering on Scotland.  I'm not certain why anyone else is pulling for Scotland but assume it has to do with a potential future match-up with Ireland.  I know nothing about rugby.  It's a brutal game with no helmets, no pads. From the looks of it, each team is trying to murder the man with the ball when they're not in a huge, human heap pushing, punching and kicking each other. Alas, Scotland loses but that doesn't dampen our spirits.  Except maybe for Boy No. 2 who hates for me to take his picture.

Score:

Tourist Trap - 1

Local Flavor - 1

But tomorrow is another day.