"If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any $@#%-ing Merlot." Miles to Jack in Sideways.
My soundtrack: California by Joni Mitchell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm39YkGrHp8
My soundtrack: California by Joni Mitchell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm39YkGrHp8
Approximately 23 years ago, we visited Sonoma. A week prior to boarding the plane to California, I found out I was pregnant. Talk about your bad timing. Even more tragic was the fact that the actual smell of the wine upon entering every tasting room made me nauseous. My husband, however, was thrilled to have a designated driver the entire trip.
With all the changes in our household lately we decide we need a hangover, I mean a do-over on our wine country trip, so after much discussion and internet searching we settle on the Russian River Valley. There are several things you need for a trip to the wine country: a convertible, a large brimmed hat, sunscreen and a sense of adventure.
After some glitches with our flight, we arrive at the San Francisco airport in the wee hours of the morning. Once our luggage finally makes its appearance on a later flight, a story to which I could devote an entire blog, we drag ourselves to the car rental counter. Prior to leaving Austin my husband, who is of Scottish descent, had me reserve BT - basic mode of transportation. After all, we aren't going to be living in the car so no need to waste money on anything luxurious, right? Our Enterprise clerk, who is obviously high on Red Bull as she is a little too chirpy for 3:00 a.m., begins the process of checking us out. We spy a couple of guys loading their luggage into a white convertible. I can see my husband's eyes light up. "How much to upgrade to a convertible?" he asks. She quotes us an outrageous sum to which my husband, a master negotiator, promptly poo-poos. "We'll just stick with what we originally reserved," he replies and I start to pout. We continue the check out process when chirpy clerk interrupts us. Magically, after some additional searching, she is able to find a better corporate rate through my husband's work. My spirits soar and my bottom lip returns to its original, upright position! But alas, it still isn't the right price for good ole Scottish Bob. By this point I am resigned to the fact that we are going to be traveling just like all the other smucks of the world when TA-DA! Our clerk finds an even better rate and my husband jumps on it. It's a Christmas miracle but deep down I know it is Bob's Jedi mind control. He's good like that. Believe me.
We pick a gray 2015 Ford Mustang GT convertible and it does not disappoint. I know nothing about cars but Bob, an avid car enthusiast and our pilot, is very pleased. The car sits low to the ground, handles well, has shifter paddles and great acceleration. The rag top is easy to put up or down with the touch of a button. The seats are incredibly comfortable which helps with our four hour drive up the Pacific Coast Highway. My only complaint is that both our suitcases will not fit in the trunk which is not surprising considering that it appears I have traveled with my entire closet and the Nordstrom's shoe department. Even Bob, who normally packs in an HEB grocery bag, has managed to fill up a relatively large suitcase. So we just throw one suitcase in the back seat. Problem solved! Which brings up another point. Unless you're hauling around little people, no one is going to fit in that back seat. The car definitely works best as a two seater.
The next morning we put the top down and head north. I am the navigator and think I'm smarter than my map app so I try to maneuver the old fashioned way - by paper map. Immediately we're lost but not to panic. We quickly spot the Golden Gate Bridge and begin a turtle's and snail's pace across the bridge. There are throngs of people trying to escape the city by car not to mention the people on foot crossing the bridge and taking in the misty view of the bay. Bob resists the urge to throw me over the side of the bridge for my lack of navigation skills and we make haste to Highway 1 and eventually hit the coastline.
As we wind our way down the hill out of the Mt. Tamalpais State Park, the Pacific Ocean suddenly unfolds before us reflecting the crystal clear blue skies. We are thankful for our convertible as the ocean breeze hits us in the face and whips my hair into a frenzy. The sun beats down on us so we take this opportunity to work on our tans but I insist it's also time for the sunscreen and hats. Bob sports a baseball cap and I model a wide brimmed straw number. We imagine ourselves to be younger and more beautiful as we cruise with cool tunes blaring from the radio.
There are many sites of interest along the way: Muir Woods, Point Reyes and Tomales Bay to name a few but we bypass these and press on for our initial destination, Bodega Bay. Oysters and beer are the name of the game on this part of our journey and we pass many beach side joints with lines queued up to indulge in the slippery little suckers. About halfway we realize we are parched and need to use the facilities. There are so many quaint towns along Highway 1 and I imagine each one has it's own local dives but we choose to stop in Olema at the Farm House Restaurant. We belly up to the bar and asked for the bartender's recommendation on brews. He offers us Scrimshaw by North Coast Brewing. It's a Pilsner beer with strong hops and Bob loves it. I settle on Great White by Lost Coast Brewery. It is crisp and perfect for a light-weight beer drinker like me. Our thirsts quenched, we hop back in the Mustang and make haste for Bodega Bay.
We dart and wind between open road and wooded lanes and are amazed at the temperature difference in the shade. We're in no hurry and just take in the beautiful, bucolic scenery.
We finally reach Bodega Bay and head to Fisherman's Cove overlooking Bodega Harbor. Our friends John and Karen highly recommend this place and it is worth the extra time winding around the harbor to find it. We order a dozen oysters as well as prawns and chips. The oysters are served with a mignonette sauce as opposed to cocktail sauce we're used to and we fight to the finish over each raw oyster, keeping count to make sure neither of us has more than the other. We chase it with Bodega Head IPA from Third Street Aleworks, another hoppy West coast style beer. It's starting to look like we're more on a brew tour than a wine tour.
We load up again, bid goodbye to the coast and head east on 116 toward Guerneville. As we enter Guerneville, it becomes apparent that this is a town that time forgot. It is stuck in the 1970's but we like the laid back vibe. We locate our lodging, Santa Nella House Bed and Breakfast which sits about 4 miles south of town. http://www.santanellahouse.com/ It's a Victorian farmhouse dating back to the 1870's and has quite a history. The home has been a brothel and a Pony Express stop among other things before becoming a bed and breakfast. We are greeted by the innkeepers Mike and Debbie who show us around the beautiful home. Our room is cozy and tastefully decorated with antiques and a fireplace. At 6:00 p.m. we're served wine and cheese on the large wrap-around veranda where we meet the other guests, Alan and Ferguson who are traveling from San Diego.
Debbie recommends Corks in nearby Forestville for dinner and even makes the reservation for us. http://www.russianrivervineyards.com/ Corks is located on a hill within the Russian River Vineyards, an organic and sustainably farmed vineyard. The evening is so lovely and cool everyone dines on the patio which overlooks raised gardens and an old, preserved wine building. Our waiter is informative and patient in helping us decide what we want to eat and drink. Since we have been eating all day, I'm not that hungry so I choose charcuterie and cheese with a glass of their 2013 Chester's Zinfandel. Bob chooses the fresh pan-seared scallops which practically melt in his mouth. Speaking of Chester, this Zin is named for the dog-in-residence who is a constant fixture on the patio. Bob calls and calls the dog to no avail. Chester ignores him and visits other tables who have been served their main courses. As soon as we're served, Chester quietly plops down at Bob's feet. That dog is no fool! We savor every bite and let Chester indulge a little as well, while the sun sets over the vineyard. The bar has been set high on our first night.
The next morning we awaken to the smell of freshly brewed coffee and the aroma of breakfast cooking in the kitchen. The wrap around porch beckons me and is delightful with a slight breeze rustling the trees while the blue jays dart from limb to limb. The chickens in the coop quietly peck away when all of a sudden they start to cackle announcing they're ready to be fed. At 9:00 a.m. Debbie serves the guests a breakfast of fruit, yogurt and homemade granola, homemade nut muffins and a spinach and egg souffle made from fresh eggs from her hens. We take the opportunity to get to know Alan and Ferguson a little better.
After breakfast, we head out with our complimentary Wine Tasting Pass from the Santa Nella House. This pass waives the tasting fees at most of the wineries in the area which at some places can run up to $20 per person.
With the convertible top down, we travel the winding road 116 south past Forestville to start our tastings, then loop around through Windsor up to Healdsburg. In Healdsburg, we head to the plaza and take our time visiting each upscale shop around the square. The shady, tree lined streets give us a brief respite from the beating sun. It is hot outside. As we make our way around the plaza, we stop in Flying Goat Coffee. This place is cool in both senses of the word. We take our time enjoying a coffee and reading the local paper while others around us play Backgammon and other nostalgic games. After we depart Healdsburg, we head down Westside Road stopping at various wineries along the way until we come full circle back to our bed and breakfast.
I won't elaborate on all wineries we visited as it would take up too much space. But Merry Edwards http://www.merryedwards.com/ and Lynmar Estate, http://www.lynmarestate.com/ both located in Sebastopol, are worth mentioning. Merry Edwards is one of California's first women winemakers and she's won many awards. We try six of her wines - a sauvignon blanc, a chardonnay and four pinot noirs. They are all amazing but we are partial to the 2012 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, 2012 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir, 2012 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir and the 2013 Coopersmith Pinot Noir. According to her website, Merry Edwards's wines are served in fine dining establishments and in Austin that includes Cafe Josie, Driskill Hotel, Eddie V's, Sullivan's Steakhouse and Wink.
Lynmar Estate is equally impressive with its wine but even more enjoyable are the tasting room, patio and lush gardens. The sommelier takes his time explaining the history of each wine to us. We taste four - 2 chardonnays and 2 pinot noirs. The stand-out is the 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir which Wine Enthusiast rated 93 points. The official description boasts that it expresses "mid-palate" pitted cherries, rose petals and cardamon. Being the wine connoisseur that I am, I just know that it tastes good so I ask the sommelier if I can purchase a full glass to enjoy. He smiles and lets me in on a little secret. "While tasting, if you find a wine that you particularly enjoy, simply ask 'can I re-visit that wine' whick is code for more, please!" This tip comes in handy as we "re-visit" several wines on our trip. The sommelier pours us both a glass of the Quail Hill and we wander the exquisite gardens, marveling at the luxuriant vegetation and riotous blooms. It's hard to leave this garden of Eden.
The next morning I have a surprise for Bob. At 4:00 a.m. we head to the Sonoma County Airport to be greeted by Up and Away Ballooning. http://www.up-away.com/ From there we travel to the best launch site, which on this day is Middleton near Hidden Valley Lake, about an hour's drive away. The fog in the immediate area is just too thick. Our pilot and chase team are friendly and fun. We arrive at the launch site and Bob joins in with inflating the balloon. We are finally up and away peering at the world from a bird's eye view. Bob, who is afraid of heights, even enjoys himself as long as he doesn't look over the side of the basket! We rise about 2000 feet and survey the area. The pilot drops us down, skims a lake, takes us back up until we catch a current that takes us across the valley. We land softly a little over an hour later. Our only disappointment is that we have only traveled about 5 miles from our starting point.
After a drive back to the airport to pick up our cars, we head to Kendall Jackson winery for brunch. Crossing the thick carpet of grass on the grounds of the winery (isn't California in a drought?) we head to a splendid picnic brunch set up beneath a large walnut tree. We munch on quiche, coffee cake and fresh fruit while sipping mimosas. The charismatic owner of Up and Away thanks us for traveling with them and reads us the balloonist's prayer:
At about the 3 1/2 mile mark, we get to the point where it is nearly impossible to keep our kayak upright. We cannot find a balance and continuously flip over. Bob insists we are taking on water and I insist the two of us are just too heavy for this one kayak. We should have rented 2 kayaks instead. Bob reminds me that we didn't have trouble early in our trip and we begin to argue about what is going wrong. We try turning the kayak on its side to pour out any water we've taken on but nothing works. "Ice cream, ice cream, ice cream!"
As we depart the restaurant, we look upward to see the most romantic waxing crescent moon. A lovely finale to our trip.
There are many sites of interest along the way: Muir Woods, Point Reyes and Tomales Bay to name a few but we bypass these and press on for our initial destination, Bodega Bay. Oysters and beer are the name of the game on this part of our journey and we pass many beach side joints with lines queued up to indulge in the slippery little suckers. About halfway we realize we are parched and need to use the facilities. There are so many quaint towns along Highway 1 and I imagine each one has it's own local dives but we choose to stop in Olema at the Farm House Restaurant. We belly up to the bar and asked for the bartender's recommendation on brews. He offers us Scrimshaw by North Coast Brewing. It's a Pilsner beer with strong hops and Bob loves it. I settle on Great White by Lost Coast Brewery. It is crisp and perfect for a light-weight beer drinker like me. Our thirsts quenched, we hop back in the Mustang and make haste for Bodega Bay.
We dart and wind between open road and wooded lanes and are amazed at the temperature difference in the shade. We're in no hurry and just take in the beautiful, bucolic scenery.
We finally reach Bodega Bay and head to Fisherman's Cove overlooking Bodega Harbor. Our friends John and Karen highly recommend this place and it is worth the extra time winding around the harbor to find it. We order a dozen oysters as well as prawns and chips. The oysters are served with a mignonette sauce as opposed to cocktail sauce we're used to and we fight to the finish over each raw oyster, keeping count to make sure neither of us has more than the other. We chase it with Bodega Head IPA from Third Street Aleworks, another hoppy West coast style beer. It's starting to look like we're more on a brew tour than a wine tour.
We load up again, bid goodbye to the coast and head east on 116 toward Guerneville. As we enter Guerneville, it becomes apparent that this is a town that time forgot. It is stuck in the 1970's but we like the laid back vibe. We locate our lodging, Santa Nella House Bed and Breakfast which sits about 4 miles south of town. http://www.santanellahouse.com/ It's a Victorian farmhouse dating back to the 1870's and has quite a history. The home has been a brothel and a Pony Express stop among other things before becoming a bed and breakfast. We are greeted by the innkeepers Mike and Debbie who show us around the beautiful home. Our room is cozy and tastefully decorated with antiques and a fireplace. At 6:00 p.m. we're served wine and cheese on the large wrap-around veranda where we meet the other guests, Alan and Ferguson who are traveling from San Diego.
Debbie recommends Corks in nearby Forestville for dinner and even makes the reservation for us. http://www.russianrivervineyards.com/ Corks is located on a hill within the Russian River Vineyards, an organic and sustainably farmed vineyard. The evening is so lovely and cool everyone dines on the patio which overlooks raised gardens and an old, preserved wine building. Our waiter is informative and patient in helping us decide what we want to eat and drink. Since we have been eating all day, I'm not that hungry so I choose charcuterie and cheese with a glass of their 2013 Chester's Zinfandel. Bob chooses the fresh pan-seared scallops which practically melt in his mouth. Speaking of Chester, this Zin is named for the dog-in-residence who is a constant fixture on the patio. Bob calls and calls the dog to no avail. Chester ignores him and visits other tables who have been served their main courses. As soon as we're served, Chester quietly plops down at Bob's feet. That dog is no fool! We savor every bite and let Chester indulge a little as well, while the sun sets over the vineyard. The bar has been set high on our first night.
The next morning we awaken to the smell of freshly brewed coffee and the aroma of breakfast cooking in the kitchen. The wrap around porch beckons me and is delightful with a slight breeze rustling the trees while the blue jays dart from limb to limb. The chickens in the coop quietly peck away when all of a sudden they start to cackle announcing they're ready to be fed. At 9:00 a.m. Debbie serves the guests a breakfast of fruit, yogurt and homemade granola, homemade nut muffins and a spinach and egg souffle made from fresh eggs from her hens. We take the opportunity to get to know Alan and Ferguson a little better.
After breakfast, we head out with our complimentary Wine Tasting Pass from the Santa Nella House. This pass waives the tasting fees at most of the wineries in the area which at some places can run up to $20 per person.
With the convertible top down, we travel the winding road 116 south past Forestville to start our tastings, then loop around through Windsor up to Healdsburg. In Healdsburg, we head to the plaza and take our time visiting each upscale shop around the square. The shady, tree lined streets give us a brief respite from the beating sun. It is hot outside. As we make our way around the plaza, we stop in Flying Goat Coffee. This place is cool in both senses of the word. We take our time enjoying a coffee and reading the local paper while others around us play Backgammon and other nostalgic games. After we depart Healdsburg, we head down Westside Road stopping at various wineries along the way until we come full circle back to our bed and breakfast.
I won't elaborate on all wineries we visited as it would take up too much space. But Merry Edwards http://www.merryedwards.com/ and Lynmar Estate, http://www.lynmarestate.com/ both located in Sebastopol, are worth mentioning. Merry Edwards is one of California's first women winemakers and she's won many awards. We try six of her wines - a sauvignon blanc, a chardonnay and four pinot noirs. They are all amazing but we are partial to the 2012 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, 2012 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir, 2012 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir and the 2013 Coopersmith Pinot Noir. According to her website, Merry Edwards's wines are served in fine dining establishments and in Austin that includes Cafe Josie, Driskill Hotel, Eddie V's, Sullivan's Steakhouse and Wink.
Lynmar Estate is equally impressive with its wine but even more enjoyable are the tasting room, patio and lush gardens. The sommelier takes his time explaining the history of each wine to us. We taste four - 2 chardonnays and 2 pinot noirs. The stand-out is the 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir which Wine Enthusiast rated 93 points. The official description boasts that it expresses "mid-palate" pitted cherries, rose petals and cardamon. Being the wine connoisseur that I am, I just know that it tastes good so I ask the sommelier if I can purchase a full glass to enjoy. He smiles and lets me in on a little secret. "While tasting, if you find a wine that you particularly enjoy, simply ask 'can I re-visit that wine' whick is code for more, please!" This tip comes in handy as we "re-visit" several wines on our trip. The sommelier pours us both a glass of the Quail Hill and we wander the exquisite gardens, marveling at the luxuriant vegetation and riotous blooms. It's hard to leave this garden of Eden.
The next morning I have a surprise for Bob. At 4:00 a.m. we head to the Sonoma County Airport to be greeted by Up and Away Ballooning. http://www.up-away.com/ From there we travel to the best launch site, which on this day is Middleton near Hidden Valley Lake, about an hour's drive away. The fog in the immediate area is just too thick. Our pilot and chase team are friendly and fun. We arrive at the launch site and Bob joins in with inflating the balloon. We are finally up and away peering at the world from a bird's eye view. Bob, who is afraid of heights, even enjoys himself as long as he doesn't look over the side of the basket! We rise about 2000 feet and survey the area. The pilot drops us down, skims a lake, takes us back up until we catch a current that takes us across the valley. We land softly a little over an hour later. Our only disappointment is that we have only traveled about 5 miles from our starting point.
After a drive back to the airport to pick up our cars, we head to Kendall Jackson winery for brunch. Crossing the thick carpet of grass on the grounds of the winery (isn't California in a drought?) we head to a splendid picnic brunch set up beneath a large walnut tree. We munch on quiche, coffee cake and fresh fruit while sipping mimosas. The charismatic owner of Up and Away thanks us for traveling with them and reads us the balloonist's prayer:
The Winds have Welcomed you with softness.
The Sun has blessed you with its warm hands.
You have flown so high and so well
that God has joined you in your laughter
and set you gently back again
into the loving arms of Mother Earth.
We are happy to be back on terra firma and after a short afternoon nap, head to Armstrong Woods for a hike. The majestic redwoods are some of the tallest living things on earth, reaching heights of 250 feet. There are several self-guided hikes to choose from and we pick one about 2 1/2 miles long. As we strike out into the woods, we get the feeling of entering a cathedral, the ancient trees stretching to the sky and forming a cool canopy above our heads. The shallow root systems often give way to strong winds and leave many of the giants on their sides, providing us a display worthy of an art museum.
Afterwards, we explore the town of Guerneville and decide that all that hiking deserves some reward so we stop in Nimble & Finn's Homemade ice cream. http://nimbleandfinns.com These sisters offer artisanal ice cream made from organic dairy and seasonal fruit. In addition, they have homemade pies and are best known for their chili apple pie. Their store resides in the former Guerneville Bank which has been beautifully renovated and includes a small museum. Bob chooses a double scoop of Front Porch Mint Chip and Madagascar Vanilla in a waffle cone and I lose all self-control when I see the peanut butter pie. It is rich and delicious and all I can do to eat four bites.
Later than evening while continuing our exploration of Guerneville, we decide to dine at Chef Patrick's, a California French cuisine restaurant. http://www.chefpatricks.com/ It's a local favorite and we soon discover why. The detail to each of our dishes is evident. I pick the prawns risotto that includes artichoke hearts and sweet peas sprinkled with parmesan cheese. Bob dines on filet mignon with mashed potatoes, squash and green beans. It's cooked to perfection. A great ending to the perfect California day.
Later than evening while continuing our exploration of Guerneville, we decide to dine at Chef Patrick's, a California French cuisine restaurant. http://www.chefpatricks.com/ It's a local favorite and we soon discover why. The detail to each of our dishes is evident. I pick the prawns risotto that includes artichoke hearts and sweet peas sprinkled with parmesan cheese. Bob dines on filet mignon with mashed potatoes, squash and green beans. It's cooked to perfection. A great ending to the perfect California day.
Our last day in the wine country has us trying to maneuver the Russian River in a kayak. We rent through River's Edge Kayak & Canoe Trips which operates exclusively on the upper Russian River. http://riversedgekayakandcanoe.com/ We choose the Rio self-guided 5 mile trip, a double kayak loaded with a small ice chest filled with water bottles, a dry bag for my cell phone and t-shirts and netting for our garbage. We have a brief orientation with the staff on the beach where we put in. He tells us to watch for various signs along the route. We are to remember that the person in the back is the Captain and the person in the front is the navigator and he informs us that we are pretty much guaranteed to flip at some point along the trip. He cautions us that the river is sometimes called the "divorce maker or the friendship breaker" because people have a tendency to get into arguments along the way, often fighting over who is guiding the boat or who is at fault for flipping. He advises us that if this happens, think "ice cream" because there is FREE ice cream at the end of the trip. Undaunted and excited, we push off for the approximately 4 hour float.
In the beginning it is smooth sailing, no pun intended. We navigate the river like pros until we come to the first section of swift moving water. We promptly flip the kayak. "Ice cream." The cold water is refreshing since it has gotten quite warm. We have a good chuckle, flip the kayak back over and paddle on. We see wildlife - deer and duck, along the way before flipping the kayak a couple more times. "Ice cream, ice cream." The more we flip, the less funny it becomes.
Around the 4 mile mark, frustration gets the better of us so I tell Bob he is just going to have to walk the rest of the way. I am sick of dealing with this thing. So Bob walks the bank and I paddle, both. of us unhappy. Bob is stomping along the shore and I am struggling to paddle by myself. "Ice cream, Ice cream, Ice Cream, ICE CREAM!!!"
Teams of people begin passing me. I notice how much higher they sit in their kayaks above the water. Note to self - I really need to get on a diet when we get home. I am sinking this kayak! I catch site of the beach where I am to disembark and it is not a minute too soon. My arms are exploding as I try to paddle. I finally bottom out about 10 yards from the beach and try to pull the kayak up but can't. About this time, Bob walks up and tries to help me get the kayak to the beach but together we can hardly move it. Bob thinks we may have punctured a hole in the boat and filled it with water but upon closer inspection we see no holes.
We walk to the rental building to turn in our equipment and Bob mentions to the owner how much trouble we had and how heavy the kayak is. She looks at us astonished and says, "Didn't the staff tell you about the plug? There's a plug you pull to drain any water you take on when you flip." Bob is thrilled and gives me that looks of "see I was right all along" and all I can do is ask "where's the free ice cream?"
After a much needed nap and a cooling down period, we are on speaking terms again and head off for our last dinner of the trip at Applewood Inn, a Micheline rated farm to table restaurant. http://www.applewoodinn.com The restaurant is styled after a country barn and is cozy and romantic with very attentive and personable waitstaff. Since it's our last night, we have to start with another dozen raw oysters served with the mignonette sauce we've grown to love. I dine on the roasted lamb and pair it with a half bottle of Merry Edwards 2012 Pinot Noir and Bob picks the New York Strip with an Old Rasputin from North Coast Brewing Company. We end with a strawberry shortcake made with mandarin quat jam, ricotta cream and local strawberries. In a word - divine.
As we depart the restaurant, we look upward to see the most romantic waxing crescent moon. A lovely finale to our trip.
As I look back on the week, I find that an excerpt from the poem The Garden of Epicurus by Lynn Fritz, proprietor of Lynmar Estate, perfectly sums up our time in the wine country.
Let us welcome the Grape
Let us enjoy the whimsy
Let us pursue the elusive
Commune with the deep gurgling joy
Valley of the Russuan River
Cool, serene, and wooded
With a sun that dances amidst the clouds
The Garden of Epicurus
Let the Grapes Speak
Let the Terrior Sing.
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